Meet the artistic director behind the iconic men’s dress shoe?label
Words by Bridget?Barnett
There’s a good chance you’ve heard of heritage-rich, Hermès-owned men’s shoe brand, John Lobb. The label’s roots date back to 1866, and designs have been championed by the likes of Prince?Harry and Frank?Sinatra.
If you haven’t heard of Lobb’s London-based artistic director, Paula Gerbase, it’s time to get acquainted. Along with sitting at the creative helm of the brand since 2014, she is also one of the few women to have worked independently on Savile Row, launching her own sharply-tailored label 1205 and, most recently, industry-praised, multi-disciplinary line,?Gerbase.
Here, we speak to Gerbase about love, anxieties, and 3000-metre-high mountain?climbs.
“My relationship with John Lobb has been a journey of personal discovery, allowing the house to speak through me and ensuring that all the creative choices I make within this role maintain the values of the house. I see my role as a guardian of these values for future?generations.”
If you could change anything about the fashion industry, what would it?be?
“That we as an industry begin to truly champion a sustainable way of working and living. This includes the way that we create, the types of products we produce, the manufacturing processes and our commitment to upholding those?practices.”
Do you approach working with women’s and men’s fashion differently? How?so?
“My approach with both men’s and women’s design is always the same – starting with quality materials, allowing them to speak to me and creating designs which hopefully put the beauty of these materials forward rather than masking them with unnecessary?noise.”
What’s your favourite way someone has described?you?
What’s your favourite way someone has described John?Lobb?
“A house of modernity, quality and?integrity.”
When you took over as artistic director of John Lobb, you went deep into the archives. What did you find that you weren’t expecting to? And what did you confirm about the?brand?
“What I found in the archives was a surprising history of movement. So many shoes and boots were created for sport and a dynamic lifestyle – walking boots, ski boots, tennis shoes, riding boots. It’s an archive which speaks to the innovation which has always been present at the?house.”